A Mediterranean Cuisine Chimera

I hear and read more and more often about Mediterranean Taste or Mediterranean Cuisine, as if the Sea had created a universal gastronomic region, a sort of steaming exotic soup with Italian tomatoes, Lebanese chickpea, Spanish olive oil and a blend of Far East palate blazing spices, served with flat bread baked in the burning sand of Libya and a spiky looking grilled fish of an unknown name, transporting anyone tasting to a scenes of “Laurence of Arabia” with “Zorba the Greek” music theme in the background, dogs barking at the shadow of gypsies passing through in the moonlight and sudden timbales preceding a belly dancer with veils swirling like a whirlwind.

I wish it was that simple!

If one dares to look at the various Countries, Ethnicities, Cultures and lingering History to find the different cuisines around Mediterranee, one might be surprised to see the variety and diversity to be found on any of the hundreds of beaches, villages, towns and cities around the big Sea.

And so we will go around.

First, about the title. Chimera refer to an impossible or idle fancy, as we would know, and it fits well with what I want to express, but it happens that another meaning is fitting even better, although a strange way, as it represents a fire-breathing monster in the Greek Mythology with a lion’s head, a goat’s body and a dragon’s tail, impersonating in this case the combination of different foods from different Countries and Cultures.

But let’s get moving. Spain is our starting point. Everyone would name Paella as a national dish, although it is originated from Valencia as a local specialty. In our counter-clock round of our culinary expedition, we have to make a quick step back to look at a Country within the Country, as Catalonia was a Principality in the Middle age with its own language (ok, don’t be afraid, they all speak Spanish as well!), its culture, its specific cuisine and has now its own government.

Try an Esgarrat or salted cod salad with tomato and onion, or a Tonyina en Escabetx (tuna escabeche) with sauteed whole tuna cut in blocks with skin and bone, onion, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, rosemary, salt, vinegar and olive oil. An escabeche preparation is allowing for an acidic base such as vinegar or lemon juice to finish the cure of fish, poultry, small game and even pork in cold temperature, after having been poached, sautéed or fried and served cold the following day. Try the Ollada, a stew of potatoes, carrots, artichokes with beans and Embotit, a local dry pork sausage. Finish with a dessert such as a Peres de LLeida, made of peeled pears cooked in a kind of light Crema Catalana and served cold, covered with meringue and decorated with cherries.

You will have an amazing list of local wine to choose from, as Catalonia has 11 qualified wine-growing regions producing most anything one like, including the well known Spanish sparkling wine. Let’s add the local cheeses which are as diversified as the wine list and you will understand that you were in a world on its own.

Going back to Valencia, we need to know that the Moors did introduced the rice to the region during the eighth century. In fact the Spanish word for rice 'Arroz' derives from the Arabic word Ar-ruzz. Today the marshland bordering the Albufera is one of the main rice productions in Spain.

Fideau is a variation on the Paella theme and cooked with noodles, fish stock and stuffed squid with tomatoes, onion, ham, and sometimes apple.

Have a Chufa, a sweet drink made from tiger nut milk called Horchata. The nuts are ground down and mixed with lemon juice, cinnamon and sugar to create a refreshing drink.

One more main region in Spain, along the Mediterranean Sea is to be visited before landing in Africa. Andalucía is also rich in tradition. You should know well the Gazpacho, which locally has 3 other variations: Salmorejo (riped tomatoes, garlic, vinegar, olive oil, salt and hard boiled eggs), Porra (same as Salmorejo but add black olives, cucumber and chopped ham) and Ajo Blanco (the white version with blanched almonds, bread soaked in water, garlic, olive oil, Sherry vinegar and white grapes).

Try the Sacromonte omelette, the Ajo Colorado, a fish stew made with red garlic or the Perdices en Escabeche translated in partridge escabeche. Again, you will have a choice of local wine to be made and try the typical cheeses.

Hey!, we just got through east costal Spain in a hurry, two – counting Catalonia – of the 22 Countries encircling the Sea! A whole lot more to taste and discover, as each region encompassing 2 or 3 States and sometime more cultures, are as different as Massachusetts and Georgia… without the corporate eateries.

Sorry but Casablanca is on the Atlantic Ocean. Tanger is also one small step outside the Sea and we have to go past Ceuta to be back on our Mediterranean track, but this time on African land and in Morocco. This last town, Ceuta, is still a Spanish dominion, as well as Mellilia a little further east. Strange territory division when you know that, a few miles west, the Gibraltar rock and the City of the same name on Spanish land are still owned by the British. It’s like if the Russian River in California was owned by… Russia!

The food to be found on the coast is mainly Moroccan, not necessary specific to the Sea, although fish is part of the protein, as further inland, sheep, cattle and poultry are more prevalent. This is true for other Countries east of this kingdom. The most known dish is the Couscous served with vegetable, meat or fish. Different Couscous blend, different name, such as Kseksu Bidawi, an imperial couscous dish with seven vegetables.

Ferakh Maamer is a meal made of spring chicken stuffed with sweetened couscous and enhanced with raisins, orange flower water, almonds, sugar and simmered in a sauce made of honey, onion, garlic, ginger, cinnamon, and saffron.

The Merguez is the spicy lamb sausage and Mechoui is the roasted lamb, both served with other dishes. Some of the red Moroccan wine is very dark but has a beautiful earthy taste and full of sun.

So much more to say but we have to go on and cross the border to Algeria, where food is very similar, although with specific distinctions. Traditional Algerian cuisine has a colorful combination of Berber, Turkish, French, and Arab tastes. Food can be either mild or packed with flavorful seasonings. Ginger, saffron, onion, garlic, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, parsley, and mint are omnipresent in an Algerian cuisine.

Same about Tunisia. Let’s not forget that the Country was a French territory from 1881 to 1956 and, as being close to Italy and particularly Sicily, these influences can be found in subtle food differences with the other ex-French territories such as Algeria and Morocco. Phoenicians had established their dominance on what is modern Tunisia land in the 12 century B.C., from which the powerful city of Carthage, was found later and from which Hannibal went to invade Rome.

You can find a variation of the couscous but also the Salade Mechouia or roasted vegetable, as well as the Tajine, a kind of omelet served cold and the Brik, a pastry filled with tuna, egg, onions, capers and parsley and deep-fried.

Next is Libya with subtle variations and different meals such as the Ruuz, a rice dish with a variety of spices, meat and vegetables and Sharba Libiya, a spiced lamb and tomato soup.

Utshu, a'eish or Bazin is one of the main and most popular dishes, as it has similitude with the Jewish version. It is a traditional and probably Neolithic meal made of dough and sauce. The dough is formed into a ball around which the sauce with vegetables and meat is poured. Lamb chops or beef or fish is added to the sauce, as well as potatoes and pumpkin. While the sauce is poured, it is complimented with lemon juice.

Cooking in the hot sand is a Tuareg tradition still in practice today, specially for bread.

Following on our Mediterranean tour, Egypt loaded with history and culture. We will find dishes that we know to be found in a few more Countries, such as Kebab, Kofta, Falafel, Baba Ghannoug and the well known Baqlawa desert. Nevertheless, a Kushari with rice, brown lentils, chickpeas, macaroni, topped with garlic, vinegar, spicy tomato sauce and garnished with caramelized onions, could be considered as one of the national dish. You might start the day with a Ful Medammas, made of mashed Fava beans, which are slow-cooked and served with olive oil, chopped parsley, onion, garlic and lemon juice. The Malukhiyah is another national dish. It is in effect a rabbit stew made with finely chopped Mallow leaves, garlic, coriander and served with rice. A substitute for the Baqlawa is Umm Ali another national dish which is a milk soaked cake with raisin and served hot.

Hey, keep up! We still have 15 Countries to go and many more different tastes to experience! Israel is certainly another culture all together and I believe we will find other reasons why their dishes cannot be part of Mediterranean food concept.

Jews have been migrating to Palestine before the UN declaration of the state of Israel in 1948. People from many different Countries such as Turkey, Iraq, Kurdistan, Yemen and North Africa all came with their own culinary traditions. Later, Jews from literally all over the world followed and introduced the most eclectic range of food. This melting pot, complimented with the local ingredients, made an interesting blend of… what-on-earth taste good. Don’t be surprised to find schnitzels made from turkey, as the veal was rare to find in the 60ies and a new tradition started, using what was available.

A few other meals came to life the same way. One of them is the Ptitim, which is often referred to as "Israeli couscous". This plate originated in the early days of the State of Israel when rice was scarce. Israel's first Prime Minister asked a produce company to devise a wheat-based substitute. You will find as well local wines and cheeses, all kosher for sure, and a very long list of East European, North African, Balkan, Yemenite and Iraqi dishes to enjoy, as well as Arab influence meals.

Palestine has most of their food in common with what is called the Levant States, such as Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Northern Iraq and Southern Turkey. This region shared many culinary traditions under the Ottoman Empire from which the influence is still present today.

Musakhan is a common main dish that originated in the northern West Bank. It consists of a roasted chicken over a Taboon bread (local flat bread) that has been topped with pieces of fried sweet onions, sumac, allspice and pine nuts. Maqluba (translated as upside-down, as the meal, once cooked in a pot, is flipped upside down into a plate) made of rice with baked eggplant mixed with cooked cauliflowers, carrots and chicken or lamb. This meal dates back from the 13^th century.

Lebanon is our next “escale” and again, full of history, traditions and influences as the French took over the Ottomans after WW1 and until the Country achieved their independence. Not surprising to find Croissants, Baguettes and Crème brulee. Nevertheless, a typical meal could be the Mezze, an elaborate variety of thirty hot and cold dishes and consist of salads such as the Tabouleh and Fattoush with dips such as Hummus, Baba Ghanoush or Moutabal, some patties such as the Sambusacs and the stuffed grape leaves. The Manaeesh a small pizza looking like, made in bakeries, traditionally garnished with cheese, Zaatar (dried thyme and sumac), or minced meat and onions. Served for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

What about the Samkeh Harra, a grilled fish that has been marinated with chilies, citrus and cilantro. Lebanese are also producing wine from the very ancient Phoenician influence but as well from the French, as we would think. They can use cardamom in their coffee as well as drinking the Turkish version. The Arak is a dry anise alcohol and served with water poured over ice, which is similar to the French Pastis.

Let’s take the boat to visit another Country on an island. Cyprus, a former British Colony before becoming independent in 1960 but still part of the British Commonwealth and member of the European Union since 2004. Village communities on this Island are dated 8500 BC and influence from the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Phoenicians precede the Romans before the Byzantines, Arabs before being claimed by Richard I of England, followed by the Templars, the republic of Venice, the Ottomans and finally the British… What a history! Food has some similitude with Lebanon, although very influenced by the Greek and whatever else they have kept from all their invasions.

Cypriots grill Halloumi cheese over charcoal, as well as olives, mushrooms, Loukaniko, which is a pork sausage and Kebabs made from various cuts of lamb, pork, or chicken. It is typically served into a pita pocket or wrapped in a thin flatbread accompanied with a salad of cabbage, parsley and onions as well as tomatoes and sliced cucumber.

An Ourgouri, made of bulgur and cracked wheat, is a traditional carbohydrate steamed with tomato, onion and the addition of Vermicelli pasta. Along with the Ourgouri, yoghurt is a classic of this Island.

Back on the Asian Continent. Archaeologists have demonstrated that civilization in Syria was one of the most ancient on earth. The land was occupied by Canaanites, Phoenicians, Arameans, Egyptians, Sumerians, Assyrians, Babylonians, Hittites, Persians, Greeks, Romans and the Byzantines… A passport with many stamps! The Kibbeh is a football shaped, Burghul floor fried croquette stuffed with minced beef or lamb. The Mujaddara consists of cooked lentils with Groat (a grain), wheat or rice accompanied with sautéed onions. A mixture of spices called Baharat Mshakale is widely used for cooking.

Turkey, the cross roads of Asia and Europe, successor of the all dominant Ottoman Empire, with its specific language, written in Latin alphabet and becoming a full member of the European Union. As far as food goes, one can find duplicates of Greek meals and what we could have found in Cyprus and Syria, but as usual, more specific plates ca be found as well such as the Mahmudiye, a royal specialty consisting of chicken meat mixed with honey, apricots, almonds, currants and black pepper. The Kokorec is made from the sheep intestines is cooked with various spices as a traditional low cost fast food in Turkey. A sort of Mc Kokorec!

Arnavut cigeri, a fried liver meal served with onion and sumac, usually eaten as a Meze in combination with other plates such as fava. Edirne cigeri is another famous liver dish, first frozen so that it can be cut into very thin layers to be fried.

And yes, the famous Turkish Coffee is made of beans finely ground to a powder and boiled in a pot before being served in a cup. Served with or without sugar, one has to wait that the fine coffee grind settle at the bottom of the cup before drinking and as one has to pay attention to slow down the cup motion to avoid re-mixing the dregs.

This is reminder that drinking and eating is an art, a discipline, a respect for what has been provided to sustain and enjoy life. Ancient cultures are there to remind us to pay attention to our interaction with food and drink, as a daily thanksgiving… not once a year.

Greece is like Egypt, It has so much history and influence on later civilizations, including us, through European immigrants. And, after all, Democracy means the Rule of the People in Greek. The first democracy was created in Athens in 510 B.C. This is more than 2500 years ago!

I think we know a lot about the various appetizers such as Boureki, Dolmades, Spanakopita, Tyropita and many more.

Soups can be the Avgolemono, a soup with vegetable, chicken or other meat, or fish broth thickened with eggs, lemon juice and rice. Bourou-Bourou, a vegetable & pasta soup from the island of Corfu. A vegetarian meal could be the Lachanodolmades, cabbage rolls stuffed with rice, spiced with various herbs and served with a light tomato coli or a Spanakorizo, a spinach and rice stew cooked in lemon and olive oil sauce.

Long list of main dishes with meat are available. The Bekri Meze is with diced beef or pork marinated in wine, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, olive oil and cooked slowly. The Giouvetsi has lamb or veal baked in a clay pot with barley and tomatoes. For the donut aficionados, Loukoumades are essentially fried balls of dough drenched in honey and sprinkled with cinnamon and the Moustokouloura are cookies of flour kneaded with fresh grape must (mashed grape). Cheeses are also very common. The Anthotyros is made of cheep or goat whey and the addition of whole milk. Can be eaten for breakfast with honey and fruit, or as appetizer with oil, tomato and herbs. This cheese has been made for centuries.

The next Country is the first on the Adriatic Sea, which is part of the Mediterranee.  Albania, an ex USSR dominion is now a democracy and has applied the European Union membership. The Albanian language is characterized as an Indo-European language that could be defined as Balto-Slavic with Germanic influences. It is a nation of multi religions with mainly Orthodox, Muslim and Catholics.

Lunch is the main meal for Albanians. Cabbage is used in many dishes from pickled to salad, soup and main course. The Tave Kosi is a national dish made of baked lamb and rice and served with a yogurt sauce. The Tave me Presh is a baked Leek dish cooked with ground meat, onion, tomato and red pepper. Finish with a Hoshaf me Fiq te Thate, a stew of dried figs.

Montenegro is the next State going north. Ex USSR and now a democracy already using the Euro as its currency. The Language is the Montenegrin with a population less than 700,000 inhabitants. Same mix of religion as Albania. Carry food from Italian influence as well as Hungary and other neighbors such as Romania and Bulgaria. One of the national dishes is the

Brav u Mlijeku, Lamb cooked in Milk. The Rastan, a dark-green vegetable from the Cabbage family, cooked into a stew with smoked pork ribs or Ham hocks. A Pastrovski makaruli is a type of homemade macaroni with olive oil and cheese from brine. A typical dessert can be the Sok od Sipka, a wild pomegranate syrup.

Bosnia & Herzegovina also look forward to become a European Country. We know the tragic stories of the recent war. This ex Yugoslavian territory has had influences from the Austro-Hungarian ruler. They speak Croatian, Bosnian and Serbian, just like us, English from New Jersey, English from Louisiana and English from Texas! (Not really but I thought it was funny!)

An interesting mix of food, again from the influence of its history and it’s neighboring Countries. The Filovane is fried bell peppers stuffed with minced meat and Paprika. A Sarma is meat and rice rolled in pickled cabbage leave. The Goulash is well known and called Gulas. A sweet finish with Tufahije, a whole stewed apple stuffed with walnut filling can follow a choice of cheeses such as Livanjski, Cincar or Vlasicki.

Croatia, similar to Bosnia Herzegovina, as it was as well part of the Yugoslavian territory and follows the trend of the other bordering Countries. The language is Croatian, as one would think.

Similar food as previously seen with a few specialties. Looks like wild game meat is common.

The Istrian Stew or Yota is made of beans, sauerkraut, potatoes, bacon, spare ribs with lots of garlic. Would probably be eaten with Mlinci, which is a typical roasted flatbread.

Slovenia has a tiny little beach connecting to the Sea. Again, same as the southern neighbors. The influence of Austria is certainly more important than with the other ex Yugoslavian territory. The Kranjska klobasa is a national sausage made mainly from pork meat, bacon and some beef. It contains salt, pepper and garlic. Another national dish is the Bujta Repa prepared from the fatty parts of the pig's head, neck, skin and sour turnips. The Obara is a dormouse (rodent) stew with vegetables. Finish with a Prekmurska Gibanica, a layered cake containing poppy seeds, walnuts, apples, raisins and cottage cheese.

What an adventure! Not your classic Mediterranean food!

Next, a big one, with many different cultures within the Country, as Italy became a one State only in 1861. The recent history seem to be quite complicated and I wish you good luck to find out what was what, although it is simple to say that Napoleon had pre-unified the Country to be re-divided and finally becoming what we know today.

Let’s go by the regions one after one and see what we can find of uniqueness.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Brovada (Turnip preserved in brandy). Frico (cooked Montasio cheese)

Veneto: Pasta e Fagioli (a dish of pasta and beans). Polenta e Osei (Polenta cooked with wild birds). Sarde in Saor (marinated sardines). Galani (thin dough made of flour, eggs and orange grating, fried and sparkled with sugar).

I am skipping the few regions that are not coasting with the Mediterranean Sea. Too bad, as all of them are really interesting for their regional food. Maybe un altro giorno!

Still going down the Adriatic coast, Emilia-Romagna has a long list of specific food, including pork, as Modena is specialized in treating pigs: Cotechino (stuffed pig's feet). Erbazzone (spinach and cheese filled pie). Tortelli (filled with chard or spinach, parsley, Ricotta and Parmigiano). Pasta such as Tortellini, Cappelleti, Lasagna, Cannelloni are local food as well as Passatelli (noodles made of breadcrumbs, Parmigiano, lemon zest and nutmeg). The list of cured meat is as follow: Motadella, Culatello, Salame Felino, Coppa, Salamina da Sugo, Salami, Pesto di Modena and Ciccioli.

Marche: Passatelli all'urbinate (spinach and meat dumplings). Olive all'ascolana (fried olives stuffed with pork, beef, chicken livers, tomato paste and Parmesan). Local treated meat: Ciauscolo, Salame Lardellato, Prosciutto de Montefelto and Fegatino.

Abruzzo and Molise: Agnello con le Olive (lamb cooked with olives). Sugo di castrato (mutton with onion, rosemary, bacon, white wine and tomatoes). Maccheroni alla Chitarra (narrow stripped pasta served with tomatoes sauce, bacon and Pecorino cheese).

The Apulia region is the heel of the Italian boot, across from Albania. Pancotto (is an ancient dish, common but tasty, made from stale bread, various wild vegetables and fennel seeds, olive oil and chili peppers). Ostriche arrosto (oysters broiled with parsley, garlic, oregano, breadcrumbs, olive oil and lemon juice).

Basilicata: Orecchiette con la Salsiccia Piccante (Half moon looking like pasta with local spicy salami). Pecorino di Forenza (Typical Forenza's sheep cheese). Sanguinaccio (jam with chocolate and pig blood). I am sure this would be an American favorite!!! I reality, this recipe is now rare to find, as it became a sort of dessert pudding without the use of the blood. In other regions, it could also be a black sausage made with pig’s blood.

Calabria is the toe of the Italian peninsula: Pesce Spada alla Ghiotta (swordfish rolls in tomato sauce). Melanzane alla Menta (Eggplant marinated with mint).

The well known island of Sicily: Timballo del Gattopardo (a pie baked with a filling of penne Rigata, parmesan, ham, chicken, onion, carrot, truffles, diced hard-boiled egg, seasoned with clove, cinnamon, salt and pepper). Maccu di San Giuseppe (bean paste with fennel). Panelle (a chickpea fritter).

Sardinia, the other island: Porcetto (piglet cooked with myrtle). Malloreddus (semolina gnocchi with saffron).

North of Calabria, on the Tyrrhenian Sea side, is the next region, Campania, the country of Naples: Pizza Napoletana (pizza topped with anchovies, mozzarella, basil and olive oil). Insalata caprese (salad of tomatoes, Mozzarella and basil). Mozzarella in Carrozza (fried mozzarella sandwich).

Lazio: Carciofi alla Giudia (artichokes fried in olive oil). Spaghetti alla Carbonara (spaghetti with bacon, eggs and pecorino). Saltimbocca alla Romana (veal cutlet, Roman-style topped with ham, sage and cooked with white wine and butter).

Tuscany seem to be the only region known by Americans today, since the movie: Fegatelli di Maiale (pig's liver stuffed into pig's stomach and baked in red wine). Pinzimonio (fresh seasonal raw vegetables served with seasoned olive oil for dipping). Crema Paradiso (creamed bacon).

Linguria is a narrow band of land connecting Tuscany to the French Riviera Coast (Cote d’Azur): Pesto (Probably the most famous recipe of the region, is a sauce made of basil leaves, sliced garlic, pine nuts, pecorino or parmigiano cheese with olive oil). Scabeggio (fried fish marinated in wine, garlic, lemon juice and sage). Torta Pasqualina (a flan filled with a mixture of green vegetables, ricotta and parmesan cheese, milk, marjoram and eggs). Bagnun (a soup made with fresh anchovies, onion, olive oil and tomato sauce. This is a traditional fisherman’s meal).

Not only Italian cuisine is far away from the iconic idea of red sauce meat ball pasta, this Country do not represent the concept of a Mediterranean taste, although Italy has by far the most miles, scusi, chilometro, of beaches on Mediteranee.

Two to go! Monaco is a tiny Country less than 10 miles east of the French/Italian border. We know most of what we need to know about the Principality but still have to mention the national specialties such as the Barbagiuan, a fried ravioli containing blette leave (a white beet), onion, chopped ham, parsley, parmesan and egg. The Fougasse is a type of bread used to make a sort of Calzone filled with cheese, strips of bacon, dried fruit, nuts or olives and goat cheese. The Stacafi is made with codfish, Provencal sauce, vegetables and fresh black olives.

Last but not least, France has a famous coast bordering Mediterranee, the Cote D’Azur (Commonly called French Riviera in The US). Although the coast is small in comparison with Italy or even Spain and Libya, we have to make a cultural distinction between the west side boarding Catalonia, as it has the same culture on the French side, and the East side more influenced by the old Italian Culture, with a language called Arpitan or Franco-Provencal, although the entire South of France from the Atlantic Ocean to the Italian Border is part of Occitania with similitude with the Catalonian language.

But Provence – Cote D’Azur is the next chronological region, with one of the most famous dish, a soup or a stew or both in one meal, the Bouillabaisse originated in Marseille, made of various fishes such as the Scorpionfish (Rascasse in French), the red Gurnard (Rouget Grondin) the Conger (Congre), the Monkfish (Lotte or Baudroie), the John Dory (Saint-Pierre), Sea Urchins (Oursins) and Octopus. Some might include the Gilt-head Bream (Dorade), the Turbot, the Mullet and the Silver Hake (Merlan). Other seafood can also be added such as Mussels (Moules), small Crab (Etrilles) and Spider Crab (Araignée de Mer).

The stew is made with an assortment of herbs and spices such as garlic, basil, bay leaf, fennel, saffron and cayenne pepper. Let’s not forget olive oil.

Vegetables are also cooked with the seafood and including potatoes, onions and tomatoes.

The broth is traditionally served with a Rouille, an emulsion made of olive oil, garlic, saffron and cayenne pepper and served on grilled slices of bread. In Marseille particularly, the broth is served first in a bowl with the bread and Rouille. The seafood and vegetables are served separately.

The Ratatouille is another well know plate and consist of various cooked vegetables and layered with herbs and baked all together. The list of veggies includes garlic, onions, zucchini, eggplant, bell peppers and the herbs include marjoram, basil, bay leaf and thyme.

The Socca is a specialty from Nice. Made of chickpea flour, olive oil and seasoned with black pepper, filled with various ingredients and rolled like a crepe.

The Salade Niçoise is also a classic. Protein are from seared Tuna and filet of Anchovies and contain cooked small potatoes, cooked green beans, green pepper, lettuce, tomatoes, sliced onion, chopped shallot, olives, garlic and hard boiled eggs cut in quarters. The seasoning is made with a Dijonnaise Vinaigrette (olive oil, Dijon mustard and wine vinegar). This recipe has variations as potatoes and green pepper can be excluded but artichoke hard be used.

Let’s not forget Corsica, just above the Italian Island of Sardinia. This is the birthplace of Napoleon. The Island as been occupied by humans since the Mesolithic age, which could be around 8000 BC. As an Island, seafood is important, but it is also a wild mushroom paradise. Forests of chestnuts (Castagnu) have been part of the Corsican life and used in many different ways, including as a flour to make the local Polenta, some breads and even an alcohol. Pigs and boars are feeding on chestnuts and acorns and many recipes are calling for these meats in various forms.

The Minestra is a popular soup and made with pork fat, ham chunk with bone, potatoes, cabbage, chard, onion, tomatoes, red kidney beans, garlic, pepper, olive oil and stale bread. The most popular cheese is the Brocciu made of goat and sheep milk. The dry meats are very popular and a large variety of local wine are produced as well.

Going around the coast east of Marseille, from the Rhône River toward Catalonia, some specific recipes can also be found in the Languedoc Roussillon region. The Brandade de Morue is a puréed salt cod with olive oil and milk, to eat with bread. The Bourride is a Monkfish stewed with vegetables and wine, garnished with Aioli, an emulsion of olive oil and garlic. And here we complete our circle by adding a French Catalonian meal called Trinxat made with Catalan cabbage and potatoes.

We went around 22 Countries and I am really getting hungry now!

As for any Countries or Regions, one can find many more recipes, but the reason of this food exploration on Mediterranean cuisine is to understand that… there is no Mediterranean cuisine, as so many diverse races, history and cultures have influenced the various people of the Mediterranee to eat and cook differently, using so many special ingredients, preparing them their own way.

Maybe the common denominator would be that they all love their foods, but this is true for any old culture’s populations having experienced food through all the influences they have endured, and embraced, and enjoy.

It has been a long trip, my foodie friends, but allow me to finish with a recipe from Provence called the Crespeou.

It is a very rare repast to find in a restaurant, as it is an old peasant recipe for a meal prepared a day in advance and consumed at lunch time to fill back energy into field workers.

It is essentially a layered omelet, cut in wedge like a pie to eat cold. The beauty of this meal is the desire to be appealing as well as tasteful, as Provencal peasants like beauty and bounty as well. Variations have been made but here is one of the old recipes.

Each layer has its own color. 

Green is made with parsley, basil, chive and blanched chopped spinach as well as using the green leaves of a Blette (white beet).

Black is made with black olives (not the one pickled in a can but the real olives from an olive bar).

Rose is from cooked ham and tuna.

Yellow is from cooked white mushrooms and grated hard cheese as well as chopped and sautéed onion.

Red is from sautéed red pepper and tomatoes.

Two or three omelets of each color can be made and layered in a tall round dish or a mold, alternating the colors. On top of the omelet combination, a flat plate is positioned to accept a heavy object to weight down the layers during the night.

This is a good example of a traditional people’s food that is so good and beautiful. I like that better than the idea of a universal Mediterranean taste, don’t you?